Crack of dawn ... or so my wife says ...
She is searching for a lost running shoe in preparation for the early morning stretch and guided power walk through the breathtaking mountain village of Zermatt. "You've got to be kidding!" I suggest she try the hotel lawn just below our balcony and roll over pulling the fluffy down filled duvet over my head smothering myself in drowsy luxury.
Still too early ... but what can I do?
Seduced from my bed by the rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the promise of breakfast; an expansive array of thick yogurt muslex, local air-dried meats, crusty bread rolls, creamy butter, fresh farm cheeses, and soft boiled eggs with the yellowiest yokes I have ever seen. Our guide reviews the morning's activities as I luxuriate over my final cup of dark chewy Arabian coffee.
Soon after 8:00am ...
 Walk through the narrow chalet lined streets adorned with vibrantly flowered window boxes now awash with morning sun and engulfed by the brilliance of the towering peaks of the surrounding Alps. I inhale the fresh crisp mountain air deeply; soon it breathes new life into each step as our group approaches the gondola base station; our ride to heaven and the Klien Matterhorn or "Little Matterhorn".
Half an hour or so later at the mid-station (Trockener steg)
Fumble with my ski boot buckles; search daypack for a lost ski glove... Guide appears with my freshly tuned skis. He notices that one of my buckles is bent and disappears with my boot into the repair shop. My wife pulls the missing glove from my jacket pocket and comments that tomorrow she has elected to abandon me in favor of joining the non-skiers for a historic tour of the village and a mountain top snowshoe romp.
Closing in on 9:10 am
Emerge from the bus sized tram and like every morning, I try to absorb the beauty and depth of the scene laid out before me. I have found my new playground and I love it!
A short run down
Gather at our fully provisioned private mountaintop marquis for a quick logistical briefing; hook-up with my coach for our first run of the day; quickly demonstrate to the group that yes indeed it is possible do a complete high-speed downhill barrel roll without removing my skis, hat or goggles.
One bruised ego later
Working on carving technique (as opposed to my firmly entrenched curving technique) through stubby gates in our private lane space…two other group members, me and our coach…this is school with a view and I am all for it!
Mid-morning gaze and respite
Contentedly I sit outside of an Italian mountaintop hut eating a fresh flaky pastry and wondering how on earth I could possibly be hungry?
Noonish ... judging from the sun (who needs a watch this close to heaven?)
Find a stranger in front of me in the lift line...for the first time all day. I am learning a lot…I am skiing stronger and faster than ever before... I am in control... I feel totally engaged and invigorated. Wait till they see me back home!
Just a little past 1:00 pm ... or so my stomach tells me
Exercised and happy I begin yet another breathtaking journey down the mountain in a tram filled with lively chatter emitted from sun filled faces.
An hour or so later ... time seems of no consequence
 Change into hiking gear and catch the cable car to the little village of Findeln perched high on the mountainside. A short hike leads to the Restaurant Findlerhof and its spectacular deck with magnificent views of the Matterhorn. We are warmly welcomed by our hosts Frenz and Heidi Schwery who prepare amazingly creative cuisine using fresh ingredients from their own mountain garden. We find the non-skiers in our group are already ensconced and enjoying a second well deserved pilsner having hiked up from the village below. Famished I choose the hearty bacon and leek quiche and fresh green salad smothered in golden olive oil. The air is clear and warm; the food superb, the beer cold and the conversation friendly and relaxed. I could not be happier.
Time to trek down ...
With a decidedly relaxed outlook I begin a pleasant 30-minute hike down the mountain to the village far below. Our guide leads us along well-worn hiking paths through fields of high mountain flowers and past emerald lakes of glacial beauty… we spot a pair of mountain goats perched on an absurdly steep cliff ledge…how do they get there? More importantly how do they get back?
Back at the hotel
Peal off my hiking boots and count my toes. Mistakenly sprawl out on the bed.
Didn't seem like too long after that
My wife heads off for a Yoga and stretch class; tomorrow she has booked the spa and thinks I should join her; I left my spa body at home…I don't remember if I snored or not; my wife claims they could hear me in the lobby; I think she's just toying with me.
After showers are done and second winds surface
Join our fellow travelers for a drink. A local expert gives a brief history of local mountaineering; I find this truly fascinating and could listen to these colorful stories of heroes and fools, and victories and defeats all night long.
Just before dinner
Board an articulated train for a mountain top dinner. Our rail car is filled with the lively and happy chatter of our group. Looking out the window I wonder why anyone in Zermatt would ever own a television. The early autumn mountain air gets chillier and crisper as the train climbs higher and as we disembark I can see my breath.
As the last flicker of daylight fades behind the Matterhorn
At 7,288 feet we enjoy stunning views of distant village lights in the valley floor and the ghostly silhouettes of the moon shadowed Alps. In the depths of the Rifflealp wine cellar we sample local Valaisan wines that come from hillside vineyards that border the nearby Rhone. In the uniquely Swiss dinning room we pair our favorite wines with a rich flavorfully cheesy raclette; in a moment of heartfelt gratitude I impulsively find my way to the kitchen to kiss the chef.
A brief walk from the Banhof (station)
 Our roguish guide persuades our small group to throw caution to the wind and sample the famous Irish coffee at Elsies place, a small log cabin on the main church square. Elsie greets us with enthusiastic warmth, tests our fluency in German…which appears to be getting better as the evening passes ... and regales us with local lore.
One Irish coffee and a few giggles later
Crawl into bed feeling the results of a full and invigorating day well lived. The sheets are white and crisp, the duvet cozy and just the right amount on clean mountain air seeps in through the open window. "Dearest," my wife calls from the bathroom, "can you warm up my side of the bed first?" Things are looking up! I'll get back to you.
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